Moisturizer

Ihe kachasị "mmetụta" nke ịka nká akpụkpọ anụ bụ nkụ, nke na-egosipụta site na obere mmiri dị ala na enweghị ike ijide mmiri. Akpụkpọ ahụ na-aghọ crunchy, siri ike na flakes. A na-akpọ ihe hygroscopic nke ukwuu maka ebumnuche imeju mmiri anụ ahụ yana igbochi nkụ. Usoro moisturize akpụkpọ anụ, otu bụ mmiri absorption; nke ọzọ bụ ihe mgbochi oyi akwa (nchekwa oyi akwa) nke na-egbochi mmiri dị n'ime ka ọ ghara ịgbasa. Ntinye mmiri nke oyi akwa mgbochi a mgbe ọrụ ya bụ ihe nkịtị bụ 2.9g / (m2 h-1) ± 1.9g / (m2 h-1), na mgbe ọ na-efunahụ ya kpamkpam, ọ bụ 229g / (m2 h-1). ± 81g / (m2 h-1), na-egosi na oyi akwa mgbochi dị ezigbo mkpa.

Dị ka usoro mmiri na-edozi ahụ si dị, a na-emepụta ihe dị iche iche nke mmiri mmiri na-enwe mmetụta dị mma. humectants ndị a na-ejikarị eme ihe gụnyere polyols, amides, lactic acid na sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glucolipid, collagen, chitin derivatives na ndị ọzọ.

(1) Polyol
Glycerin bụ mmiri viscous dị ntakịrị ụtọ, nke na-adịghị mma na mmiri, methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-amyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol na Phenol na ihe ndị ọzọ. Glycerin bụ akụrụngwa mmiri dị mkpa maka sistemu emulsification ụdị O/W na ihe ịchọ mma. Ọ bụkwa ihe dị mkpa maka ude mmiri. A pụkwara iji ya mee ihe dị ka ihe na-ekpo ọkụ maka pastes nwere ntụ ntụ, nke nwere mmetụta dị nro na mmanu mmanu na akpụkpọ ahụ. Na mgbakwunye, a na-ejikwa glycerin n'ọtụtụ ebe na ngwaahịa ntụ ntụ eze na mmanụ hydrophilic, ma bụrụkwa akụkụ dị mkpa nke ngwaahịa hydrogel.
Propylene glycol bụ enweghị agba, transperent, ntakịrị viscous, mmiri mmiri hygroscopic. Ọ bụ miscible na mmiri, acetone, ethyl acetate na chloroform, na etisasịwo na mmanya na ether. A na-eji propylene glycol eme ihe n'ọtụtụ ebe na ihe ịchọ mma. Enwere ike iji ya dị ka onye na-ahụ maka wetting na moisturizer maka ngwaahịa emulsified dị iche iche na ngwaahịa mmiri mmiri. Enwere ike iji ya dị ka onye na-eme ka ọ dị nro na ihe na-edozi ahụ maka ntanye eze mgbe ejiri glycerol na sorbitol jikọtara ya. Enwere ike iji ya dị ka onye na-achịkwa mmiri na ngwaahịa agba ntutu.
1,3-Butanediol bụ mmiri mmiri viscous na-enweghị agba na enweghị isi na-ejigide mmiri dị mma, ọ nwere ike ịmịnye mmiri nke kwekọrọ na 12.5% ​​(RH50%) ma ọ bụ 38.5% (RH80%) nke oke ya., na-ewe iwe karịa glycerin na propylene glycol. Enwere ike iji ya mee ihe n'ọtụtụ ebe dị ka moisturizer na lotions, creams, lotions na eze ntachasị. Na mgbakwunye, 1,3-butanediol nwere mmetụta antibacterial. Sorbitol bụ uzuzu kristal na-acha ọcha nke emere site na glucose dị ka akụrụngwa. Ọ nwere uto dị ụtọ. Sorbitol na-agbaze ngwa ngwa n'ime mmiri, na-agbaze ntakịrị na ethanol, acetic acid, phenol na acetamide, mana ọ naghị esiri ya ike na ihe mgbaze ndị ọzọ. Sorbitol nwere ezigbo hygroscopicity, nchekwa na ezigbo nkwụsi ike kemịkalụ. A na-eji ya eme ihe n'ọtụtụ ebe n'ọhịa nke ọgwụ kwa ụbọchị. Enwere ike iji ya dị ka akụrụngwa maka ndị na-abụghị ionic surfactants ma nwee ike iji ya mee ihe dị ka ude na ncha eze na ihe ịchọ mma.
Polyethylene glycol bụ polymer na-agbaze mmiri nke a kwadebere site na ntinye nwayọọ nwayọọ nke ethylene oxide na mmiri ma ọ bụ ethylene glycol. Enwere ike gbazee ya n'ọtụtụ ihe mgbaze ihe na-eme pola siri ike ma nwee usoro ịdị arọ molekụla dị ala na nke ọkara. Enwere ike iji ụdị ngwaahịa ahụ dị ka ihe na-eme ka mmiri na-eme ka mmiri na-edozi colloidal dị iche iche. A na-eji polyethylene glycol eme ihe n'ọtụtụ ebe na ihe ịchọ mma na ụlọ ọrụ ọgwụ n'ihi na ihe ndị magburu onwe ya dị ka mmiri solubility, physiological inertness, ịdị nwayọọ, mmanu, moisturization akpụkpọ, na nro. Polyethylene glycol dị ala dị ala nwere ikike ịmịkọrọ na ịchekwa mmiri site na ikuku, ọ na-eme ka ọ bụrụ plastik ma nwee ike iji ya mee ihe dị ka humectant; ka ịdị arọ molekul na-abawanye, hygroscopicity ya na-agbada nke ọma. Enwere ike iji polyethylene glycol dị arọ dị elu mee ihe na kemịkalụ kwa ụbọchị, ọgwụ, textile, imepụta akwụkwọ na ụlọ ọrụ ndị ọzọ dị ka mmanụ mmanu ma ọ bụ nro.

(2) Lactic acid na sodium lactate
Lactic acid bụ organic acid nke dị n'ọtụtụ ebe na okike. Ọ bụ ngwaahịa ikpeazụ na metabolism nke ihe ndị dị ndụ anaerobic. Ọ dị mma na anaghị egbu egbu. Lactic acid bụkwa isi mmiri-soluble acid na eke moisturizing ihe (NMF) nke mmadụ epidermis, na ọdịnaya ya dị ihe dị ka 12%. Lactic acid na lactate na-emetụta nhazi anụ ahụ nke ihe nwere protein, ma nwee mmetụta plastik doro anya na nro nro na protein. Ya mere, lactic acid na sodium lactate nwere ike ime ka akpụkpọ ahụ dị nro, zaa ma mee ka ọ dịkwuo elu. Ọ bụ ezigbo acidifier na ịchọ mma nlekọta anụ ahụ. Otu carboxyl nke lactic acid molecule nwere ezigbo mmekọrịta maka ntutu na akpụkpọ ahụ. Sodium lactate bụ mmiri mmiri na-arụ ọrụ nke ọma, na ikike ime mmiri ya dị ike karịa ihe ndị na-eme ka mmiri dị n'ọdịnala dị ka glycerin. Lactic acid na sodium lactate na-etolite ngwọta nchekwa nke nwere ike gbanwee pH nke akpụkpọ ahụ. N'ihe ịchọ mma, lactic acid na sodium lactate na-ejikarị eme ihe dị ka ihe na-edozi ahụ na akpụkpọ anụ ma ọ bụ ihe na-eme ka ntutu dị nro, acidifiers iji dozie pH, creams na lotions maka nlekọta anụ ahụ, shampoos na conditioners maka nlekọta ntutu isi na ngwaahịa nlekọta ntutu ndị ọzọ. A pụkwara iji ya na-akpụ afụ ọnụ ngwaahịa na ncha.

(3) sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate
Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na maka nkenke) bụ ire ere nke mkpokọta fibroin na oyi akwa epidermal granular. Ọdịnaya dị n'ụdị moisturize anụ ahụ bụ ihe dịka 12%. Ọrụ physiological ya bụ ime ka stratum corneum akpụkpọ ahụ dị nro. Mbelata ọdịnaya nke sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate na stratum corneum nwere ike ime ka akpụkpọ ahụ sie ike ma kpọọ nkụ. Azụmahịa sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate bụ ihe na-enweghị agba, enweghị isi, ngwọta mmiri mmiri dị ntakịrị, na hygroscopicity ya dị elu karịa nke glycerin, propylene glycol, na sorbitol. Mgbe iru mmiri dị 65%, hygroscopicity dị elu dị ka 56% mgbe ụbọchị 20 gachara, na hygroscopicity nwere ike iru 60% mgbe ụbọchị 30 gachara; Na n'otu ọnọdụ ahụ, hygroscopicity nke glycerin, propylene glycol na sorbitol bụ 40% mgbe ụbọchị 30 gachara. , 30%, 10%. A na-ejikarị sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate eme ihe dị ka ihe na-ekpo ọkụ na ntụ oyi, nke a na-eji na lotions, ebelata lotions, creams, lotions, na-ejikwa ya na ntacha eze na shampoos.

(4) Hyaluronic acid
Na hyaluronic acid bụ amorphous siri ike nke a na-enweta site na anụ ahụ anụmanụ. Ọ bụ ihe na-emeghachi ihe na-eme ka disaccharide (1→3) -2-acetylamino-2deoxy-D(1→4) -OB3-D glucuronic acid Polymer na-emepụta nwere ihe dị ka molecular mass nke 200,000 ruo 1 nde. Hyaluronic acid bụ moisturizer sitere n'okike nke nwere ihe na-eme ka mmiri dị ike, dị mma na anaghị egbu egbu, na-enweghị mgbakasị ahụ na akpụkpọ mmadụ. Hyaluronic acid na-agbaze n'ime mmiri mana ọ naghị agbaze na ihe mgbaze organic. N'ihi na mgbatị na ọzịza nke molekụla Ọdịdị na ya aqueous ngwọta usoro, ọ ka nwere a elu viscosity na ala ịta, na ike kegide a ibu ego nke mmiri, otú o nwere magburu onwe moisturizing Njirimara, elu viscoelasticity na elu permeability.
Hyaluronic acid bụ ugbu a ụdị moisturizer nke nwere ọmarịcha arụmọrụ na ịchọ mma. N'ihe ịchọ mma, ọ nwere ike inye mmetụta dị nro na akpụkpọ ahụ, mee ka akpụkpọ ahụ dị nro ma dị nro, na-egbu oge ịka nká. Ọtụtụ n'ime ngwaahịa hydrogel nke ụlọ ọrụ nwere hyaluronic acid ma ọ bụ jiri ya na-ejikọta ya, wee nweta nzaghachi dị mma mgbe ewebatara ya n'ahịa.

(5) Collagen nke hydrolyzed
A na-akpọkwa collagen protein glial. Ọ bụ protein fibrous na-acha ọcha nke mejupụtara akpụkpọ anụ, cartilage, akwara, ọkpụkpụ, arịa ọbara, cornea na anụ ahụ njikọ ndị ọzọ. Ọ na-akpatakarị ihe karịrị 30% nke mkpokọta protein ọdịnaya nke anụmanụ. Ọ bụ ihe akọrọ nke anụ ahụ na anụ ahụ dermal. Collagen bụ ihe ruru 90%.
Collagen bụ isi ihe mejupụtara protein nke mejupụtara akpụkpọ anụ na akwara. Ọ nwere ezi mmekọrịta na akpụkpọ na ntutu. Akpụkpọ anụ na ntutu isi na-enwe mmetụta dị mma maka ya, na-enye ya ohere ịbanye n'ime ime ntutu isi, wdg, na-egosi ezigbo mmekọrịta na ịdị irè. Na mgbe hydrolysis gasịrị, polypeptide yinye nke collagen nwere otu hydrophilic dị ka amino, carboxyl na hydroxyl, nke nwere ike igosi ezigbo njigide mmiri na akpụkpọ ahụ. Hydrolyzed collagen na-enwekwa mmetụta nke ibelata ntụpọ akpụkpọ ahụ yana iwepụ wrinkles nke ụzarị ultraviolet kpatara. Ya mere, ọrụ nke collagen hydrolyzed na-egosipụtakarị na moisturizing, affinity, freckle whitening, mgbochi ịka nká na ihe ndị ọzọ. N'ime anụ ahụ anụ ahụ, collagen bụ ihe na-adịghị edozi na mmiri, ma ọ nwere ikike siri ike ijikọ mmiri. Enwere ike ime hydrolysis nke collagen site n'omume acid, alkali ma ọ bụ enzyme, na enwere ike nweta collagen hydrolyzed soluble, nke a na-ejikarị na ihe ịchọ mma na ngwaahịa mma ahụike.

Ụdị humectants ndị ọzọ gụnyere chitin na ihe ndị na-emepụta ya, glucose ester humectants na osisi humectants dị ka aloe na algae.